Monday, July 17, 2006

John Lennon Wall


On our way to a picnic in Prague, Honza took us by what is known as the John Lennon Peace Wall. To stand freely in front of this wall was breathtaking. To think that people risked inprisonment to come and scribe a message of love or peace or freedom. It just confirmed my belief that music can touch people's souls.

Below is an excerpt from bagism.com about the wall:
Lennon was a pacifist hero for the Czech subculture during the totalitarian era. In the decade following the collapse of Communism, the Lennon Wall came to represent not only a memorial to Lennon and his ideas, but also a monument to free speech and the non-violent rebellion of Czech youth against the repressions of neo-Stalinism.

Shortly after Lennon's death in 1980, under the ever watchful eyes of the Communist secret police, an anonymous group of Prague youth set up a mock grave for the ex-Beatle. The event was spontaneous, much in the same way that fans in New York City had gathered at Central Park upon hearing of Lennon's death. But unlike the gathering in New York, mourners in Prague risked prison for what authorities called "subversive activities against the state."

Prague's mock tombstone was, in fact, a recess within a garden wall that forms the backside of a 14th century churchyard. At the time of Lennon's death, western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some Czech musicians who played the music were sent to jail for the offense.

But the threat of prison couldn't keep people from slipping into the square at night to scrawl graffiti epitaphs in honor of their underground hero. The Communist police tried repeatedly to whitewash over the graffiti but they could never manage to keep the wall clean. Paintings of Lennon began to appear along with lyrics of his songs. The wall quickly took on a political focus and, inevitably, developed into a forum for grievances against the Communist state. Even the installation of surveillance cameras and the posting of an overnight guard couldn't stop the opinions from being expressed. Lennon marches also started to take place each year on Dec. 8. Those marches ultimately became linked to dissident protests on International Human Rights Day -- December 10. Participants in those early marches say they were channeled through a gauntlet of uniformed and plain-clothes police. Many were jailed or beaten for joining the marches.

Some of the writing on the Lennon wall during the 1980s was inane but much of it was quite profound. A running battle developed between the police whitewashers and dissident graffiti writers until November, 1989 when Communism collapsed in the former Czechoslovakia's non-violent "Velvet Revolution."

It has been reported that the French ambassador, whose office looks directly upon the colorful wall, telephoned Prague's municipal authorities late in 1989 and asked them not to paint over or interfere with the graffiti. Long after the Velvet Revolution, new writing continued to turn up regularly.

In 1998, the local "John Lennon Peace Club" and the restituted owners of the wall -- a religious order dating from the 11th century called the Knights of the Maltese Cross -- worked together to reconstruct its crumbling facade.

There are several explanations as to why this particular spot at Velkoprevorske Namesti became a spontaneous memorial in the first place. The tombstone shape of the original gothic recess must have played an important role. There also is a centuries-old connection to the square and the name "John." The original name of the Maltese Knights, founded at the time of the First Holy Crusade, was "The Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem." Also, in Maltese Square, just around the corner from the Lennon Wall, there stands a baroque statue of St. John the Baptist. But most importantly, the Lennon Wall is just a footbridge away from Kampa Park, a place that has long been a popular gathering place for Prague youth. One western journalist living in Prague since the 1970s suggests that the Lennon Wall had been a kind of "counter culture wailing wall" even before Lennon's death, with poems written by teens about friends who had died in a car accident or suffered from a drug overdose.

In the post-totalitarian era, on any day of the year when it is not raining or freezing, a dozen circles of young Czechs and foreign travelers can be found scattered across Kampa Park strumming guitars, tapping out rhythms on African drums or just enjoying the sun. This serene setting, with the park's ground level view of the gothic Charles Bridge, makes it difficult to imagine the not-so-distant past when young people risked prison for singing Lennon's music.

Friday, July 14, 2006

Vrtbovska Gardens

Down the street and around the corner from our hotel we found the Vrtbovska Gardens, built in 1715 for Jan Joseph the Earl of Vrtba, the highest chancellor of Prague Castle.


















The gardens are built on terraced floors which are connected by curved staircases which give views of the gardens below. The garden is also filled with statuary and urns.


















View from atop the terraces of the Vrtbovska Gardens. I love the curved building here. Way to build into the available space!

Cafe Signs


One of my favorite cafe signs. Things were constantly misspelled on signs....but it only made it that much more endearing to me. Note "sendwiches" and "toust", the latter being a grilled "sendwich".

Views from St. Nicholas Church

Some great views of Prague's Mala Strana area (where our hotel was located). The red roofs reminded me a lot of Tuscany. I love them sooo much!!









Hotel Pictures from Prague

Ok, thanks to some great friends from the Prague tour, I have some pictures from the trip. Yeah!!! Below are the hotel pics


Street leading to our hotel, The House at The Big Boot . .. uphill, and cobblestones all the way. We became very accustomed to the sounds of luggage wheels, high heels and car wheels on the street below our window. This is the street that killed us late at night after the pubs. Just as we thought we were almost home, there was this final little hill to climb. Worked off the beer calories though!









Front entrance, House at The Big Boot, (Dum U Velke Boty), Vlasska 30-333, Prague 1 Czech Republic. The house was rebuilt before 1669 and is located in Mala Strana. It is owned by Jan and Charlotta Rippl, our wonderful hosts. I absolutely loved the flower boxes in the windows...a very Prague-type of decoration.









My bedrom window, second floor, window on the right. Up the alley was a small cafe which played live music at night and 80's techno music duing the day. The German Embassy was directly across the street, the American Embassy down the block.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Back in the States

I'm officially back home and back at work. Reality has set in and the vacation is officially over. I started unpacking a little last night. Mostly, I just wanted to look at the cool souvenirs that I bought.

I got a water painting by a local artist of the Prague skyline. The colors are so exquisite! Can't wait to have it framed and put it on a wall somewhere. I also got a beautiful black and white photo of the Charles Bridge. I tried to capture the same shot myself but was lacking the emotion. Glad I bought one anyways since my camera was stolen. I also fell in love with a glass sculpture of a man and woman dancing. It's in dark blue glass and hand made by another local Prague artist. If/when I get a new camera, I'll take pics and post them.

In Madrid, I saw a porcelain, bright red bull about seven inches tall or so and grabbed it immediately. Not sure why, but I really liked it. I also got my mother a gift in Madrid, but I haven't given it to her yet so I can't mention it. Sorry mom!

Overall a really good trip, even with the whole being robbed situation. I fell in love with Prague! I had a great time seeing Craig again. Julie and I made the most out of Madrid and its nightlife.

I'll post more stories as I remember them and have time. Thanks to everyone who emailed me during the trip! And huge thank you's to Craig and Julie for meeting me in Europe!!! I'm already starting to wonder where I'll go next year. hmmm....till then!!!

I have to shower where?

When I was planning my trip to visit Craig in Germany, we decided to spend a couple nights in his town of Friedberg. He got permission from whoever to have me sleep in his military barracks on base. Awesome!! Didn’t even think about what sleeping in a guy’s military barracks would entail. Naïve little Jill.

It’s basically like a dorm in college. Guys usually share a room with somebody and there are the basics: bed, TV, radio, etc. Craig’s room is huge since he’s a Sergeant. Look at me knowing people with titles!! (Although apparently civilians outrank military. Did you know that?) Anyways, I’m getting side tracked as usual.

So, Craig has a cool room, nice and big with a whole little living room area set up. Good stuff. So, since it’s an all guys barracks, the bathroom is a guy’s bathroom as well. Thankfully there were stall doors that shut and locked for the toilettes, so that was no biggie. But, the morning shower became interesting.

The shower “room” for lack of a better description is straight out of the military movies we’ve all seen. Just a big room with tile floors and five showerheads. No curtains, no stall doors…kind of how I would imagine prison to be. So, there’s me a whole group of guys staying in the barracks. Craig offered to block off the entire bathroom while I showered, because there is only a shower curtain separating the shower area from the sinks and toilet stall area. So, I’m all secure with Craig standing guard and talking to me the whole time so I knew he was still there. Fine. Good. But then there is a really weird feeling about showering in a huge room all by yourself. I just kept telling myself that this must be like to be rich and have a huge steam room/shower set up, just not as nice. Needless to say, it was the fastest shower ever!!

Later on, after showering and dressing and back to normal, I was in the bathroom again brushing my teeth. One of Craig’s soldiers came in to shower and I definitely think I took him by surprise! Hahaha. He kind of just stood there wrapped in his towel, not sure what to do. I told him to go ahead and I’d be out of there in a second. He went into the shower room and spent forever making sure that the shower curtain in the doorway between us was completely closed. Glad to know I’m not the only one paranoid!!!

What beat are they clapping to??

Julie and I decided that a must see while in Madrid was a flamenco show. The only knowledge I had of flamenco up until this point was when our college roommate Yomarie was cast in a play and had a couple of flamenco lessons for a dance sequence. I had images of women wearing dresses with ruffles and men in the traditional Spanish suit. I was excited. I have a cd of flamenco guitar music that I like. Maybe I should have read up a little more before the show…my fault.

We chose a midnight show since the 9:30 was sold out. We were told that this was the best venue and best show in town. We grabbed some dinner and then went to a bar before the show. I had a glass of wine and Julie drank a beer. We arrived at the show with a bit of a buzz going and were very happy entertaining ourselves before the show. We noticed immediately that one of the guys in the band looked exactly like Horatio Sans from Saturday Night Live. I wondered what those actors did in the off season!!

The show began with two guitar players, two singers and a guy playing the cajón (a wooden box used as a percussion instrument). The music was really good, but Horatio (as the singer will now be known as) was an “interesting” singer. Two songs later, Julie and I were starting to wonder where the dancers were. This was a flamenco show with dancers right? Hmmmmm….finally a couple comes on stage. The woman was wearing a gorgeous turquoise dress, but the guy had on jeans, a button down shirt and a jean jacket. It was as though he walked right off the street and onto the stage. Was he really wearing that? Was he really part of the show? Maybe he lost his luggage or something? Nope, he was definitely the male dancer.

The dancing was absolutely stunning. The speed and accuracy of their feet is just insane. The venue is known as the “House of the Happy Feet” but I think my feet would hate me if I danced like that for too long. The woman’s dress swayed with the music and with her movement. It was quite stunning. After the first dance, the guy disappeared and the woman kept dancing on her own. When the guy came back out later, he was dressed in a more traditional white suit. Much better!!

The weirdest part to me was the clapping. The two lead singers were clapping along, but to what, I’m not sure. They were not on beat with the music, and it wasn’t a beat that you could even add to the music. It was just plain odd. Julie and I got to the point where we couldn’t help but laugh a little now and then. I’m sure the alcohol wasn’t helping either. We sooo didn’t want to be those girls, but when we looked around the room, other people had the same look on their faces. “What beat are they clapping to?” And apparently singing as though you are in pain and mumbling the words is part of flamenco.

All in all, we decided that we were glad that we saw it. I appreciated it for its art form, but I’m not a big fan of flamenco. Maybe I’ll read up on it some more and try it again another time…just not at the House of Happy Feet.

Friday, July 07, 2006

¡Muevelo! ¡Muevelo!

Hola chicos y chicas. yeah, that´s about the extent of my Spanish here for now. Happy to report that Julie made it to Madrid safely. We had a great time last night. We went to this cool little salsa club called El Son about a five minute walk from our hotel. The place was dark and the music was blaring. A dj played salsa, merengue and reggaetone all night while everyone danced the night away. Around 2am a live band started to perform. They were phenomenal musicians. I love watching salsa bands perform cause they feel the beat so much that they are up there dancing while singing/playing. Good times!!

After a couple of beers, I finaly said yes to the guys who were asking me to dance. I think I danced with three or four different guys throughout the night. I´m by far not a good salsa dancer. I´m more of a hip hop and R&B kinda gal, but I had a great time. One of the guys I dance with was a local named Armand. Sweet guy with great dance moves. By 3am we were all sweaty and gross but having a great time!! There was even random salsa line dancing that Julie and I tried and failed at. It was hilarious!! Wish you could have seen it...actually, probably better that you didn´t. We found ourselves quite entertaining.

One thing I really appreciate about the salsa club is the men´s intentions when you dance. Back home, ¨dancing¨at the club is more of an excuse for a guy to try to rub up on a girl (sorry for the crude description mom!). In salsa clubs here and in most places, its about the actual dancing. Granted, its a very sensual kind of dancing, but there is usually no hidden agenda. I appreciate that alot. I had fun dancing with all the different guys and afterwards, we each say ¨gracias¨ and then go back to our friends and talking. Much better club atmosphere then back home.

Overall a very good first night out in Madrid. Tonight we are going to see a flamenco show. Should be fun. Off we go to explore Madrid some more. Happy Friday!!!!

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Madrid...Seeing how the other half live

Today, I began my travel in Madrid with a stroll around town. I decided to get lost and began wandering little side streets. It was about 10am and there were no tourists in sight...beautiful!! I meandered through little neighborhoods with cobblestone streets, and beautiful ornate front doors with tile and iron. The side streets were also much cooler cause they were mostly in the shade. I wound up in Plaza Mayor, one of the major plazas in the city. It was beautiful and it was great to see such a major plaza being set up for the day. The cafes were just starting to open and tables were being put out. The neighborhood dogs still had the run of the plaza. There were running back and forth barking, with the barks echoing throughout the plaza.

After spending a couple minutes just staring at everything, I decided to continue my journey. I picked another small little side street and wandered down that. I found a really cute little farmers market that I made note of. I think I might go there now to get some fresh fruit. After about 15 minutes, I stumbled upon what was apparantly the Royal Palace and Cathedral. I figured while I´m here, why not go inside.

The palace was absolutely gorgeous. King Juan Carlos still uses it today for official events and dinners. Royal funerals also take place there I believe. The palace was completely too ornate, as most of them are, but it gave me a lot of stuff to see and take in. The best part about being there early is that there was no line and hardly anybody inside. I manuevered around a couple of tour groups and then found that I had the whole palace to myself. I was alone in each room, well...minus a security guard here and there. It was very surreal. I spent time trying to imagine living in a place like that and what life must have been like back then. Absolutely insane.

Julie comes today on the 4pm train. Can´t wait to see here and catch up. I haven´t seen my old college roommate in two years now. I´m sure we will have many fun things to report about in the days ahead.

Germany Lost.....awwwww

Craig and I decided that we would spend our last night in Berlin (my last in Germany) with a couple thousand of our fellow World Cup fans. There was a huge festival (for lack of a better description) going on. The streets were shut down for a mile in one direction and a couple blocks wide. Huge jumbo tron TVs were set up all down the street and vendors were selling beer, food and t-shirts. Everyone was sporting the Germany colors. They were waving flags constantly, singing the German fight chant and having a great time. Kids had their faces painted with red, yellow and black - the German team colors.

The game started off slow, so Craig and I decided to turn our interests to our alchol intake. Surrounded by a huge crowd, I knew that the reality of the situation was that I needed a beer buzz or I was going to hate being part of a mob. So, we immediately got four beers, two each. Then I decided it was time for a brat. We wandered through the crowd to the guy selling brats. I ordered two of them....in German!!! Craig taught me how about 30 seconds before I had to say it, but whatever....it was in German. hells yeah!! so with a beer in one hand and a brat in the other, I was brought back to my German heritage.

Half time in the game came and went without a goal. Although, it did bring us more beers and Craig one very messy donar kebap (German version of a gyro). Three hours after we arrived, it was about time to go. The game was still 0-0 when we left. Part of me wanted to stay to see what happens when the game ends...win or lose. But then the realistic part of me said that thousands of people would be pouring through two gates, possibly rioting and I don´t want to die. So.....

We hailed a bike taxi back to the hotel. We proceeded to chant ¨Deutchland!!!¨everytime we passed anybody on the streets....or even thought we might pass somebody. Every body we screamed to, proceeded to raise their fists in the air and repeat it back. Made my night!! I even screamed it out to a group of Polizei (German police) who chanted back as well!! Good times!

On a sad note, I´ve decided that it is in fact my fault that Germany lost. I never did get arround to buying my Ballack jersey. We didn´t paint our faces. Perhaps the German flag on Craig´s car wasn´t big enough to show our pride. I knew that I wasn´t drinking enough beer to keep my German heritage proud. Damn it!!! So, yeah.....to all of the German fans out there...and to Germany as a whole: My Bad!!

However, I will always and forever love Midfielder Michael Ballack. He will have my shoulder to cry on if he needs it.

Reality happens

So, I came into the internet cafe yesterday to write a blog, but i wasn´t really sure where to begin or if i even wanted to blog about this, but i think i will. Get it out there and move on. As some of you know, while I was in Berlin I was robbed. Craig and I stayed in a nice hotel in the business area of the city. Our room was one of 5 that got hit within four hours, during the Germany-Italy World Cup game. They stole 350 euros and my digital camera. Looking back on it, I´m glad that it was the only thing we lost. We are safe. We weren´t in the room.

The worst part is that I don´t have any of my pictures from Prague or Germany. They were on the memory card in the camera. And as fate would have it. We specifically went back to the room to put my digital camera away so that I wouldn´t lose it at the WC game. Figures! I´m not sure why but it really hit me yesterday morning and I couldn´t stop crying. Poor Craig! There were a couple of hours that I was really tempted to go to the airport and switch my flight so that I could just head home. I wanted to be back with things that were familiar to me. But, my plane ticket to Madrid and my first hotel night there were already paid, so I figured I might as well make the trip and see how i feel.

The German police were called to the hotel and they spent about a half hour with us going over everything and then they even fingerprinted half of our hotel door. Craig and I were both impressed. We were expecting some fake ass report to be made, but there were really serious about it. I´m guessing its because there were so many people robbed. I have to call the German police department when i get back to the states to give them the specifics of my camera model so that in case for some rare reason they do find my camera, they can return it.

Ok, so there is the story. Sucks but I´m about 85% over it now. On to the next blog where it can be fun again.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Germany

So, I made it to Germany after a slight train incident. Well, I guess technically I was already in Germanz when it happened. We're riding along, about an hour from Frankfurt where I was meeting Craig. All of the sudden the train stops....in a field. Ok, no worries...I'm good. It's daylight out this time. I am showered. I am already ahead of the Venice situation. Long story short....70 minutes later the train starts again for whatever reason and off we go.

I met Craig at the track and we threw my bags in his car. Then, like good 20 somethings during World Cup, we headed straight over to the local pub. We started drinking and watching the rest of the games. Poor Brazil!!!! awwwww and Poor England!! We drank and danced and partied all night. We got home around 5am...can't believe I stayed awake for 22 hours!! Especially now that i am old and everything.

Craig's base is in this really cute town of Friedberg, about 30 minutes outside of Frankfurt. The architecture is so beautiful there and the town of about 20,000 even has a castle. We spent yesterday wandering around town and relaxing. We climbed to the top of the tower in the castle and had a great view all the way to Frankfurt. Every time I'm in a castle I try to imagine what it was like to live there....and to defend it from invades. It is such a world that i can't bring to life.

There are more fun stories but they must wait now. My time at the internet cafe is about to run out. Hope everything is going well back home. Happy 4th of July!!! I know Craig and I will be having a beer or two in celebration of the homeland!!

Good bye Prague

Ok, so I'm in Germany...Berlin to be exact. You are going to have to bear with me on type o's cause i'm using a german keyboard that obviously hates me. keys are all switched around and everything! aaaarrrrrggg!

My last days in Prague were great. I spent Friday morning buying a couple of gifts that i'm really excited about...one of which was for me. My mom gave me some money for my birthdaz and told me to buy something nice (thanks mom!!). I actually listened to her (go figure) and bought a beautiful glass sculpture. its dark blue and iäm really excited about it. as long as it doesn't break on the way home!! Guess I'll find out soon enough. Friday night we had a final group dinner and this gorgeous locals restaurant. Honza surprised us by arranging a couple of his musician friends to come a play some classic Czech songs. it was so surreal to be sitting in the restaurant with these musicians. i can't even explain it!! And then of course, we went around the corner to the beer hall and finished the nights off with some half liters of beer and a lot of great conversation. everybody exchanged emails and then headed home.

Saturday morning i woke up early for one final stroll through Prague before leaving for Germany. I wandered through my neighborhood which was tourist free at the hour and said my favorite phrase: Dobrey Den (Good day) to the locals. I've mastered that phrase. I gave my traditional nod to the Czech police in front of the American Embassy and then made my way to the Charles Bridge one last time. I stood on the bridge for probablz 20 minutes or so just wathcing the water run below it and trying to memorize the Prague skyline before I left. It was extremely peaceful but also sad.

It was at that moment that I realized how much I had fallen in love with the city over the week. I was looking forward to Germany and Spain but there was a huge part of me that did not want to say good bye. The people, the culture, the history, the architecture...I love it all. I am now one of the proud people that can say: 'Prague? Oh my god, you have to go there!! It's one of my favorite cities!!!'

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Birthday then rain...

Yesterday was my birthday. I wasn't planning on doing anything special for it (sorry mom). Honza, our tour guide, had taken us to Prague Castle and some other sights. Honza was born and raised in Prague. He's about 30 years old and is in university right now studying, of all things, Chinese. He just finished spending two weeks with Rick Steves updating his tour books.

Afterwards, we went to lunch at this great cafe with a gorgeous overview of the city, we all split up to do our own thing. I went to the pub with Susan as I reported yesterday and got a birthday buzz. I ending up sleeping for two solid hours. Woke up and met the group. In the summer, musicians from the Prague Philharmonic and the Prague Symphony come together to play concerts for the tourist at the Municipal House. We met up and walked to a great
little, local park.

Honza surprised us with bottles of champagne and fresh strawberries to celebrate my birthday!! He also bought me a book by a famous Czech author that we had talked about the day before. He had the whole group sign a little birthday card for me also. It was really sweet!!

After the little picnic, we headed over the Municipal House. The building is absolutely exquisite. They way they use iron and gold on the outside is remarkable. It was from the gate near this building that the Czech Republic was declared and students began tearing down all symbols of Vienna control. Just to stand in that spot and listen to the story gave me chills. To think that hundreds of 20 year old students stood up to the government to fight for something they believe in awes me still.

Once we got inside and took our seats, I was able to appreciate the inside decor as well. There is a massive skylight in the middle of the ceiling with stain glass windows. The musicians played four pieces, of which I couldn't name right now. I have the program but its in my room, three stories away, and I'm not going to get it. Anyways....the concert was phenomenal. Something about the music really hit me. I'm always amazed by how certain music can really hit me and draw on a lot of emotion. Sitting there in that theatre, in this beautiful city, listening to these classic pieces was more than I can possibly explain in words.

After the concert, Honza decided that because it was my birthday, the night must continue. We went to a local pub for some late night food and some more PIVO!!! The pub he took us to was full of Czechs watching the World Cup game. We squeezed into a table in the back and ordered some beers. In true Prague fashion, we discussed everything from polictics to religion to business to movies. Several hours later we decided we were all buzzed and falling asleep so we went back to the hotel. It was perfect birthday in Prague!!! And it's true, I will never forget it.

Today we got up early and went to explore the Old Town of Prague. That is where my hotel was the first day I was here, so I knew it pretty well. Honza made the city and its history come to life. It was a very enjoyable day. We broke up at lunch and Susan and I wandered off to by my train ticket to Germany and her bus ticket to another Czech town. My train ticket was found and bought with no problems and in a matter of 20 minutes. Her bus ticket on the other hand.....

After getting bad directions to the bus station twice, we ended up taking a tram into a far out Prague suburb. There were no other tourist and nobody spoke English. It was great!! On top of that, it was at least 90 degrees out. We finally figured out where we were and jumped on the subway to the right spot. We found the bus station after a good search around the neighborhood and we were able to get her ticket. Getting back was easy as well....jumped on the subway and zoomed right back into town.

We did a little bit of quick shopping and then grabbed some food. Afterwards, we decided to sit in the town square and watch a bit of the Brazil vs. Ghana world cup game since there were hundreds of Brazilians around. About 20 minutes later, a huge gust of wind swept in and the clouds rolled in. Cafe tables started falling over, glasses broke, umbrellas flew away. Susan and I decided that we should probably start heading back to the hotel, a decent 20 minute walk. As we start walking, it began to barely drizzle. After all of the heat of the day, it actually felt good. We got to the Charles Bridge and had to make a decision: do we take cover or screw it and cross? The bridge is about 1/3 mile long, so once you start, you're committed.

We went for it. And straight out of a sitcom or something, as soon as we got to about the half way point, the sky opened up and started seriously raining. Another 10 minutes in the pouring rain, we split up to go to our hotels which are right around the corner from each other.

I walked into the doorway to my hotel and out of the rain. I asked the owners son for a towel since i was soaking wet. I dried off a little, went up stairs, and changed clothes. I'm a whole new, clean woman now. The worst part about the rain is that tonight (right now acutally) we were supposed to be retracing the steps of the students' march that became the Velvet Revolution. I'm so upset that I have to miss it. It's still raining, lightening and thundering out, so I'm calling it a day. We were supposed to go to an open air screening tonight of a new film titled "The Mad" by a rebelious Czech artist. Don't think that's gonna happen either. Wonder if I can Netflix that eventually. If it stops raining anytime soon, a couple of us are going to head to the pub around the corner for some beer by candle light. Not a bad end to a great day.

It's suppose to rain for the next two days. Guess it's time to buy my souvenir Praha hat. It could have been worse though....it could have rained on my birthday!!!

Monday, June 26, 2006

They say its your birthday

So, I have a bit of a beer buzz going on and it's only 3:30 in the afternoon here. We got up early this morning to explore the Prague castle and the cathedral next door. As most churches in Europe are, this one is exquisite in detail and in size. Amazing. There will be pictures to follow some day. After all of the site seeing, I went to grab an afternoon birthday drink with a woman from my group. She lives 3 miles from me in Sherman Oaks!!! Small world!! We decided to go to this little bar that we passed by last night. It's set in a cave type of building and the only light is candle light. One huge pint later and we were happy Americans. We stumbled out of the dark bar into the 93 degree midday sun. As we navigated our way down the cobblestone alley, we passed by another bar. We decided we must look in. It was a cute little garden that we'll probably go back to later for a drink. Each bar in Prague only serves one type of beer. And as the Czech saying goes: "You must be faithful to one woman and one beer.....at least for one night." So, we could not mix our beers.

Tonight we are going to a concert in one of Prague's greatest venues. They are putting on a concert with all of the songs by Czech's great composers. I figure it's a great way to mix authentic Czech with some culture and a birthday treat all in one. Also, everything in Prague is very inexpensive compared to back home. Tickets for this concert tonight come out to $20. Our afternoon beers for $1.20 each for a huge pint. Gotta love a city before it adopts the euro!!

I've wandered around the city so much in the past couple of days that I feel I know it pretty well. I've left the map in my room and I just wander off. Worst comes to worst, I just ask somebody to point me in the direction of the German Embassy and I'm all good. Public transporation works well here and is easy to navigate. Although, walking the city is just as easy and doesn't take that long.

I'm still having trouble trying to learn the Czech language, which is a little frustrating, but I'm dealing. Only things I know so far: Please, Thank you, Hello, Beer please, and Check please. That's working so far, but it would be nice to know more. Perhaps next time!

Julie and I have talked some more and we have decided that we are in fact going to Pamplona for running of the bulls!! What else have we decided: That we are not going to sleep during the 36-40 hours that we are there. I'll let you know how that goes!!!! Should be really crazy and a lot of fun. You only live once right?

That's all I have to report for now. I'm off to take a quick nap and then shower before the culture. Nothing like sleeping off a beer buzz before taking in some culture. God bless being 26 and traveling Europe!!! Thanks to everyone for your birthday wishes!! I miss you guys and part of me really wishes I were at home for my birthday. But, as my new friend Susan from Sherman Oaks said, "You'll never forget your 26th birthday, spent in the Prague Castle and a candle lit bar." And it's so true.

Till next time.....love ya!

Jill

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Prague!!

I have been in Prague for about 24 hours now and the city fits perfectly. The people are all extremely friendly, even though most do not speak English!! awesome! The architecture is ridiculous and there is no way to capture its beauty on film...although I keep trying.

My flight on Air France went fine. I got on board, ate dinner and then passed out. Woke up seven hours later as we were flying over England. Great flight! The food was really good too. The tram that takes you from one terminal to the next in Paris was a Mercedes...damn French people!! Nothing like riding in style at the airport!

I have so much to say about Prague that I'm not sure where to begin. I will fill in with more detail later. To begin with, I got to my first hotel with no problem yesterday. I checked in, dropped off my bags and set out to get acquainted with the neighborhood. I spent three hours walking around the area taking in all of the sites. I bought a sandwich and just before I was
ready to call it at night at 9pm (yeah, give me a break...I had been traveling) I stumbled upon the World Cup game. The city set up huge televisions in all of the town squares for locals to watch the game. I sat on the ground with about a hundred other people and ate my sandwich while watching the game. It was Argentina vs. Mexico. One man in the crowd was a big Mexico fan. Everytime they scored or had a great play, he stood up, screamed "MEEXXIIIICOOOOO!", did a lap around the square and gave everybody high fives. It was great!!

Speaking of the World Cup, I had my first brush with authentic hooligans. Well, maybe not hooligans as much as young, drunk fans. It was a group of German football fans who caught my attention when I first began my neighborhood walk. I heard the voices of young guys chanting in German. Of course, I had to find out where it was coming from. I followed the noise and it lead me to a group of about 7 or 8 young guys from Germany. They didn't speak English and I don't speak German. But, I went up to them and said "Deauthland!! Michael Ballack!!" and gave a pumping fist in the air. That seemed to be an international declaration and they repeated by gesture. We all started laughing and cheering. Then, they continued down the street with
their chanting and drinking their beers. Apparently it's ok to wander the streets of Prague with open beer cans, or big glasses of beer.

Their is a large police presence here in Prague. I'm told that it's like this year round, with a little additional cause of the WC. The police are all pretty cool though. They park and gather around the squares during the game and they patrol the streets. But they never seem to bother anyone and aren't crazy enforcers. They more hang out with each other, lean against their cars and smoke. Good times!

The hotel I'm at now is right across the street from the German Embassy and around the corner from the American Embassy. I'm told that this is one of the safest neighborhoods in the city because of it. Cars are stopped and checked for bombs (awesome!) before they are allowed down my street. My hotel room faces the German Embassy.

That is all the time I have for now. I hope everyone is doing well back home. I'll update more soon!!! Till then -

Jill

Thursday, June 15, 2006

Michael Ballack












I am in love with footballer Michael Ballack. It's official. He's a midfielder for the German team during the World Cup. He plays for Chelsea FC during the regular season. He's a libra and has a degree in German and History...all things that matter when you're crushing on an athlete. I know!

But seriously, he's really cute. He's German. I'm German. I'm gonna be in Germany in two weeks. It's only a matter of time before we meet, fall in love and get married. Right? hahahahahaha.

It's all good. At least he brings some good looks to the World Cup. I knew I was watching football for a reason!!

Wednesday, June 14, 2006

Madrid

So, I've narrowed down my Madrid hostel choices to three. Depending on if Julie can meet up with me, I'll book it now or maybe just wait till I get there to do it. I figure worse comes to worse, I can stay here at the Royal Palace right? I'm sure they won't mind if I just crash in one of the 2800 rooms there.








I also just found out that the Museo de Prado (Prado Museum) is having a huge exhibit with Picasso while I'm there. It's celebrating the 25th anniversary of his Guernica painting being brought back to Madrid from NYC in 1981. Picasso had given it to the Museum of Modern Art in NYC in the 1930s while Spain was at war. His last wish was that it would be returned to Spain once democracy rights were restored to the country. In 1981, it made that transition, marking the before and after in Spain's political history. I'm not a huge Picasso fan, but it will still be great to see Spain's best artist's work while in Spain.

Monday, June 12, 2006

Czechs beat US in World Cup Game

Now don't get me wrong...I'm all for Team America, but I really want the Czech team to make it to the semi-finals. I'll be in Prague during those games, and I think there will be a great feeling in the air if Czech is still in the game. Czech and USA played each other this morning and the Czechs won. yeah!!! It's sad for the USA team though cause now there is almost no chance of them advancing to the second round.



USA National Team


The Czechs crush Team USA ... literally!

Thursday, June 08, 2006

German hotel

Craig and I finally decided on our hotel room of choice for Berlin. We'll be staying at the Mercure Hotel Berlin Mitte. I booked the reservations today. Because of World Cup, there are no changes or cancellations allowed, so now I guess we have to go. The hotel looks really nice and it's in a great part of town. It's in the new city center of Berlin, within walking distance to Potsdamer Platz and Bradenburg Gate. I'm excited!!!!












Wednesday, May 10, 2006

My Own DaVinci Code??


So, I was doing some reading on Berlin. Found an interesting little tidbit of information. Berlin's Tempelhoff district has a medieval heritage as an outpost of the Knights Templar, the warrior monks who gave that part of town its name. Anyone who read the DaVinci Code knows about the Knights Templar. For the one or two of you that haven't, here's a quick history from "Time Out Berlin."

The Templars were founded during the Crusades to protect pilgrims travelling to the Holy Land. They also blended two of mankind's most powerful urges - to worship and to fight - into an institution with spiritual legitimacy, political clout and extraordinary wealth. Their trademark white tunics with red crosses were as recognizable then as the logo of any global corporation today. The group had secret initiation rituals, took vows of poverty and celibacy and were big on collecting holy relics.

The knights were feared as ferocious fighters, but they also set up possibly the world's first formal banking scheme: pilgrims could deposit gold and silver at their nearest Templar outpost, collect a voucher, and cash it in at a Templar office near their destination. The Templars were probably invited to settle Tempelhoff precisely because of their money management skills.

In 1307, France's Philip IV arrested all the Templars at their Paris headquarters, charging them with heresy, based on stories of idol worship. The reality was that Pope Clement felt threatened by the Templar's power, and Philip wanted their cash for his war against England. After Templars confessed under torture, their Grand Master was burned at the stake and their land holdings, including those at Tempelhof, were turned over to other religious orders.

Templar legends are central to many esoteric systems, and why they went down without a fight in an enduring source of speculation. Some believe a chosen few went underground to preserve a secret knowledge, and re-emerged in the 17th century as the Freemasons.

Maybe Craig and I can go on a little DaVinci Code mystery chase all of our own (minus the whole people dying and everything). Then, I'll come back, write a book about it and become rich. Yup...great idea!!

Friday, May 05, 2006

Madrid - Bullfighting


So I've been doing some research on Madrid. I hadn't really planned on going anytime in the near future, so I wasn't too informed about the place. One thing that came to mind immediately was Spain and bullfighting. I'm a huge animal rights person so I have major issues with this Spanish tradition. Put it this way, when I see roadkill, it makes me want to cry. To the left is a picture of the Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas in Madrid. It's a famous bullfighting ring.


I've heard some things about bullfights. Such as: They starve the bulls before the fight to weaken them. The bullfighter stabs the bulls with little swords so that it slowly bleeds allowing the fighter to finally kill him later.

These things make me sick, but I'm also intrigued. I have always been a person to seek out the truth about things rather than just taking someone's word for it. This has been good and bad in the past. But nonetheless, I think it's the right way to learn and experience life. One of my missions while over there is to talk to people to find out what is truth and what is fiction in regards to the fights. I know there is an art and a sport to it. I know the meat of the bull is eaten afterwards, but still.


But in the meantime, I found this picture. While i never wish anybody ill will, there is a romantic notion to this picture. Revenge is sweet. Something tells me that the bulls aren't a big fan of the sport either.

Thursday, April 27, 2006

You Know It's Time to Go Home When...

Saw this on the Lonely Planet blog and liked it. Enjoy....

You know it's time to go home when...

  1. No shame
    You think it´s perfectly normal to wash your underwear in the shower (with shampoo) and hang them out the dormitory window to dry
  2. Cleanliness is subjective
    You have rationalized the contents of your washbag to the point that even the soap is starting to look dispensable
  3. All your conversations are the same
    You can´t remember the last time you had a conversation that didn´t begin with ¨So, where you from?¨
  4. Malnutrition is setting in
    Crackers, cheese and biscuits form your staple diet
  5. Your friends have given up hope
    You have noticed that your friends have started refering to if rather than when you come home
  6. Life´s a commune
    You haven´t slept in a room without several other people in it for months
  7. Your feet may never be the same again
    You´re getting flip flop feet
  8. Too much like a local
    You know the words to all the local pop songs
  9. It´s time
    Your backpack smells

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Velvet Revolution

Just read a little bit about the Velvet Revolution that happened in Prague in 1989. A group of 30,000 students peacefully marched to mark the 50th anniversary of the suppression of student protests by the Nazis, which had led to the closing of Czech universities till the end of WWII. It's an interesting situation and I am looking forward to being there and standing in the places where these students marched. I'm hoping to gain some inspiration from it.

I feel like my generation has gotten a little too lazy about protesting and speaking up for things that they find important in society and government. How can we expect to change the wrongs in society if we aren't willing to speak out against them. I do comment those students who safely and intelligently protested against the new immigration bill here in the US. That is a whole other subject for another day, but it's nice to see young people taking a stand for things they believe in.

To read more about the Velvet Revolution: Click Here

(Picture is of students offering riot police flowers in a gesture of peace.)

Friday, April 21, 2006

Craig in Germany



I thought it would be fun to post a pic of my friend Craig who I will be meeting up with in Germany. We met years and years ago (wow I feel old) back in St. Louis when we were working at Six Flags.

I thought it only right (and extremely embarrasing) that he not know that his pic is up here until he reads this and sees it....haha!! I think this picture was taken when he was in Iraq.

Preparing for Prague

My hotel reservations are made for the Prague portion of the tour. I'm staying at a hotel right across from the German Embassy and around the corner from the American Embassy. The hotels there try to maintain the residential feel of the area by not posting signs with their hotel names on them. So, all I have is the address and the fact that it's right across the street from the Embassy. I hope that is enough! The hotel is Dum u Velke Boty. In English, it translates as House at the Big Boot.

Here is a picture of the hotel:





















View of the German Embassy from the hotel's window:

















I've also started reading more about Prague. I have a couple of the typical tour books, but I'm also ready some nonfiction by Prague writers. One is titled "The Spirit of Prague" by Ivan Klima. It's a great book so far. It's a collection of essays about growing up in Prague and the culture and people of the city. Ivan grew up during the Nazi occupation and at the age of 8 was taken to a concentration camp. He chronicles what life was like there and how it affected different people in different ways. Below is a link for the book if you're interested in reading more.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0964561123/102-2885354-8708117?v=glance&n=283155

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

The ticket is bought!

I am officially going to Europe. I bought my plane ticket, and I am locked in. I spent $1477 on the ticket. Yeah, I'll wait for you to recover from that one..... All I can say is, God bless the World Cup.

Yeah, I've never loathed soccer so much in my entire life. I'm going over right at the end and the final games of the World Cup. It's all good though. They are in Germany this year and I have planned my trip around them. As much as I love millions of sweaty, drunk people surrounding me in mobs, I'm going to pass just this once.

My trip is slowly coming together. I'll be over there for 17 days total. As of now, it breaks down like this:
Prague: 7 days
Frankfurt: 2 days
Berlin: 3 days
Madrid: 2 days
Toledo: 2 days

I'm still deciding on a day between Berlin and Madrid. Not sure if I want another day in Berlin or get on to Madrid and experience that.

I am really excited to go to Prague. Everybody that I talk to loves it and has become addicted to the city. I'm going there alone, and I'm a little nervous but really excited. I've been reading a lot about its history during the war and the Halocaust. There is just so much history to this city!! It's unbelievable.

From Prague, I will be taking the train over to Frankfurt to meet up with my friend Craig who is stationed in a military base just south of the city. I'm going to hang out with him there for a day or 2 and then we are going to drive up to Berlin. I haven't really looked into everything that Berlin has to offer. I know there is a great night life, the Berlin Wall and good beer. I'll have to do some research and find some more historical things there. Craig and the guys drive up there a lot for little trips. It's a four hour drive from Frankfurt.

From Berlin, I'll be catching an EasyJet flight (England's version of Southwest) to Madrid. I think I might take the train straight down to Toledo from there. With the new train system, the trip is only a half hour. I will be meeting my college roommate Julie there. She is going to University in Toledo. I plan on spending a couple days with her. Then I want to head back up to Madrid and check out the city. The Museo de Prado is suppose to be unbelievable. And I just read online about a great park that they have there that sounds like a good place to chill and read a book in the summer. I might end up seeing Madrid alone, depending on Julie's class schedule, but i'm ok with that. It'll be an adventure and force me to interact more with the locals. It'll be good. I heard the nightlife in Madrid is absolutely insane. I can't wait!!

From Madrid, I catch a flight back to the good ole USA. I have a couple hour layover in Miami and then on to your favorite airport and mine: LAX.

If you have any suggestions on places to go, see, things to do, etc for Berlin, Madrid or Toledo, please let me know. I'm excited to hear what other people have enjoyed.

Until then... Guten nacht. Buenos Noches. And...yeah, haven't quite learned Czech yet. Right on top of that one.

Jill