Monday, July 17, 2006

John Lennon Wall


On our way to a picnic in Prague, Honza took us by what is known as the John Lennon Peace Wall. To stand freely in front of this wall was breathtaking. To think that people risked inprisonment to come and scribe a message of love or peace or freedom. It just confirmed my belief that music can touch people's souls.

Below is an excerpt from bagism.com about the wall:
Lennon was a pacifist hero for the Czech subculture during the totalitarian era. In the decade following the collapse of Communism, the Lennon Wall came to represent not only a memorial to Lennon and his ideas, but also a monument to free speech and the non-violent rebellion of Czech youth against the repressions of neo-Stalinism.

Shortly after Lennon's death in 1980, under the ever watchful eyes of the Communist secret police, an anonymous group of Prague youth set up a mock grave for the ex-Beatle. The event was spontaneous, much in the same way that fans in New York City had gathered at Central Park upon hearing of Lennon's death. But unlike the gathering in New York, mourners in Prague risked prison for what authorities called "subversive activities against the state."

Prague's mock tombstone was, in fact, a recess within a garden wall that forms the backside of a 14th century churchyard. At the time of Lennon's death, western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some Czech musicians who played the music were sent to jail for the offense.

But the threat of prison couldn't keep people from slipping into the square at night to scrawl graffiti epitaphs in honor of their underground hero. The Communist police tried repeatedly to whitewash over the graffiti but they could never manage to keep the wall clean. Paintings of Lennon began to appear along with lyrics of his songs. The wall quickly took on a political focus and, inevitably, developed into a forum for grievances against the Communist state. Even the installation of surveillance cameras and the posting of an overnight guard couldn't stop the opinions from being expressed. Lennon marches also started to take place each year on Dec. 8. Those marches ultimately became linked to dissident protests on International Human Rights Day -- December 10. Participants in those early marches say they were channeled through a gauntlet of uniformed and plain-clothes police. Many were jailed or beaten for joining the marches.

Some of the writing on the Lennon wall during the 1980s was inane but much of it was quite profound. A running battle developed between the police whitewashers and dissident graffiti writers until November, 1989 when Communism collapsed in the former Czechoslovakia's non-violent "Velvet Revolution."

It has been reported that the French ambassador, whose office looks directly upon the colorful wall, telephoned Prague's municipal authorities late in 1989 and asked them not to paint over or interfere with the graffiti. Long after the Velvet Revolution, new writing continued to turn up regularly.

In 1998, the local "John Lennon Peace Club" and the restituted owners of the wall -- a religious order dating from the 11th century called the Knights of the Maltese Cross -- worked together to reconstruct its crumbling facade.

There are several explanations as to why this particular spot at Velkoprevorske Namesti became a spontaneous memorial in the first place. The tombstone shape of the original gothic recess must have played an important role. There also is a centuries-old connection to the square and the name "John." The original name of the Maltese Knights, founded at the time of the First Holy Crusade, was "The Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem." Also, in Maltese Square, just around the corner from the Lennon Wall, there stands a baroque statue of St. John the Baptist. But most importantly, the Lennon Wall is just a footbridge away from Kampa Park, a place that has long been a popular gathering place for Prague youth. One western journalist living in Prague since the 1970s suggests that the Lennon Wall had been a kind of "counter culture wailing wall" even before Lennon's death, with poems written by teens about friends who had died in a car accident or suffered from a drug overdose.

In the post-totalitarian era, on any day of the year when it is not raining or freezing, a dozen circles of young Czechs and foreign travelers can be found scattered across Kampa Park strumming guitars, tapping out rhythms on African drums or just enjoying the sun. This serene setting, with the park's ground level view of the gothic Charles Bridge, makes it difficult to imagine the not-so-distant past when young people risked prison for singing Lennon's music.

Friday, July 14, 2006

Vrtbovska Gardens

Down the street and around the corner from our hotel we found the Vrtbovska Gardens, built in 1715 for Jan Joseph the Earl of Vrtba, the highest chancellor of Prague Castle.


















The gardens are built on terraced floors which are connected by curved staircases which give views of the gardens below. The garden is also filled with statuary and urns.


















View from atop the terraces of the Vrtbovska Gardens. I love the curved building here. Way to build into the available space!

Cafe Signs


One of my favorite cafe signs. Things were constantly misspelled on signs....but it only made it that much more endearing to me. Note "sendwiches" and "toust", the latter being a grilled "sendwich".

Views from St. Nicholas Church

Some great views of Prague's Mala Strana area (where our hotel was located). The red roofs reminded me a lot of Tuscany. I love them sooo much!!









Hotel Pictures from Prague

Ok, thanks to some great friends from the Prague tour, I have some pictures from the trip. Yeah!!! Below are the hotel pics


Street leading to our hotel, The House at The Big Boot . .. uphill, and cobblestones all the way. We became very accustomed to the sounds of luggage wheels, high heels and car wheels on the street below our window. This is the street that killed us late at night after the pubs. Just as we thought we were almost home, there was this final little hill to climb. Worked off the beer calories though!









Front entrance, House at The Big Boot, (Dum U Velke Boty), Vlasska 30-333, Prague 1 Czech Republic. The house was rebuilt before 1669 and is located in Mala Strana. It is owned by Jan and Charlotta Rippl, our wonderful hosts. I absolutely loved the flower boxes in the windows...a very Prague-type of decoration.









My bedrom window, second floor, window on the right. Up the alley was a small cafe which played live music at night and 80's techno music duing the day. The German Embassy was directly across the street, the American Embassy down the block.

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Back in the States

I'm officially back home and back at work. Reality has set in and the vacation is officially over. I started unpacking a little last night. Mostly, I just wanted to look at the cool souvenirs that I bought.

I got a water painting by a local artist of the Prague skyline. The colors are so exquisite! Can't wait to have it framed and put it on a wall somewhere. I also got a beautiful black and white photo of the Charles Bridge. I tried to capture the same shot myself but was lacking the emotion. Glad I bought one anyways since my camera was stolen. I also fell in love with a glass sculpture of a man and woman dancing. It's in dark blue glass and hand made by another local Prague artist. If/when I get a new camera, I'll take pics and post them.

In Madrid, I saw a porcelain, bright red bull about seven inches tall or so and grabbed it immediately. Not sure why, but I really liked it. I also got my mother a gift in Madrid, but I haven't given it to her yet so I can't mention it. Sorry mom!

Overall a really good trip, even with the whole being robbed situation. I fell in love with Prague! I had a great time seeing Craig again. Julie and I made the most out of Madrid and its nightlife.

I'll post more stories as I remember them and have time. Thanks to everyone who emailed me during the trip! And huge thank you's to Craig and Julie for meeting me in Europe!!! I'm already starting to wonder where I'll go next year. hmmm....till then!!!

I have to shower where?

When I was planning my trip to visit Craig in Germany, we decided to spend a couple nights in his town of Friedberg. He got permission from whoever to have me sleep in his military barracks on base. Awesome!! Didn’t even think about what sleeping in a guy’s military barracks would entail. Naïve little Jill.

It’s basically like a dorm in college. Guys usually share a room with somebody and there are the basics: bed, TV, radio, etc. Craig’s room is huge since he’s a Sergeant. Look at me knowing people with titles!! (Although apparently civilians outrank military. Did you know that?) Anyways, I’m getting side tracked as usual.

So, Craig has a cool room, nice and big with a whole little living room area set up. Good stuff. So, since it’s an all guys barracks, the bathroom is a guy’s bathroom as well. Thankfully there were stall doors that shut and locked for the toilettes, so that was no biggie. But, the morning shower became interesting.

The shower “room” for lack of a better description is straight out of the military movies we’ve all seen. Just a big room with tile floors and five showerheads. No curtains, no stall doors…kind of how I would imagine prison to be. So, there’s me a whole group of guys staying in the barracks. Craig offered to block off the entire bathroom while I showered, because there is only a shower curtain separating the shower area from the sinks and toilet stall area. So, I’m all secure with Craig standing guard and talking to me the whole time so I knew he was still there. Fine. Good. But then there is a really weird feeling about showering in a huge room all by yourself. I just kept telling myself that this must be like to be rich and have a huge steam room/shower set up, just not as nice. Needless to say, it was the fastest shower ever!!

Later on, after showering and dressing and back to normal, I was in the bathroom again brushing my teeth. One of Craig’s soldiers came in to shower and I definitely think I took him by surprise! Hahaha. He kind of just stood there wrapped in his towel, not sure what to do. I told him to go ahead and I’d be out of there in a second. He went into the shower room and spent forever making sure that the shower curtain in the doorway between us was completely closed. Glad to know I’m not the only one paranoid!!!

What beat are they clapping to??

Julie and I decided that a must see while in Madrid was a flamenco show. The only knowledge I had of flamenco up until this point was when our college roommate Yomarie was cast in a play and had a couple of flamenco lessons for a dance sequence. I had images of women wearing dresses with ruffles and men in the traditional Spanish suit. I was excited. I have a cd of flamenco guitar music that I like. Maybe I should have read up a little more before the show…my fault.

We chose a midnight show since the 9:30 was sold out. We were told that this was the best venue and best show in town. We grabbed some dinner and then went to a bar before the show. I had a glass of wine and Julie drank a beer. We arrived at the show with a bit of a buzz going and were very happy entertaining ourselves before the show. We noticed immediately that one of the guys in the band looked exactly like Horatio Sans from Saturday Night Live. I wondered what those actors did in the off season!!

The show began with two guitar players, two singers and a guy playing the cajón (a wooden box used as a percussion instrument). The music was really good, but Horatio (as the singer will now be known as) was an “interesting” singer. Two songs later, Julie and I were starting to wonder where the dancers were. This was a flamenco show with dancers right? Hmmmmm….finally a couple comes on stage. The woman was wearing a gorgeous turquoise dress, but the guy had on jeans, a button down shirt and a jean jacket. It was as though he walked right off the street and onto the stage. Was he really wearing that? Was he really part of the show? Maybe he lost his luggage or something? Nope, he was definitely the male dancer.

The dancing was absolutely stunning. The speed and accuracy of their feet is just insane. The venue is known as the “House of the Happy Feet” but I think my feet would hate me if I danced like that for too long. The woman’s dress swayed with the music and with her movement. It was quite stunning. After the first dance, the guy disappeared and the woman kept dancing on her own. When the guy came back out later, he was dressed in a more traditional white suit. Much better!!

The weirdest part to me was the clapping. The two lead singers were clapping along, but to what, I’m not sure. They were not on beat with the music, and it wasn’t a beat that you could even add to the music. It was just plain odd. Julie and I got to the point where we couldn’t help but laugh a little now and then. I’m sure the alcohol wasn’t helping either. We sooo didn’t want to be those girls, but when we looked around the room, other people had the same look on their faces. “What beat are they clapping to?” And apparently singing as though you are in pain and mumbling the words is part of flamenco.

All in all, we decided that we were glad that we saw it. I appreciated it for its art form, but I’m not a big fan of flamenco. Maybe I’ll read up on it some more and try it again another time…just not at the House of Happy Feet.

Friday, July 07, 2006

¡Muevelo! ¡Muevelo!

Hola chicos y chicas. yeah, that´s about the extent of my Spanish here for now. Happy to report that Julie made it to Madrid safely. We had a great time last night. We went to this cool little salsa club called El Son about a five minute walk from our hotel. The place was dark and the music was blaring. A dj played salsa, merengue and reggaetone all night while everyone danced the night away. Around 2am a live band started to perform. They were phenomenal musicians. I love watching salsa bands perform cause they feel the beat so much that they are up there dancing while singing/playing. Good times!!

After a couple of beers, I finaly said yes to the guys who were asking me to dance. I think I danced with three or four different guys throughout the night. I´m by far not a good salsa dancer. I´m more of a hip hop and R&B kinda gal, but I had a great time. One of the guys I dance with was a local named Armand. Sweet guy with great dance moves. By 3am we were all sweaty and gross but having a great time!! There was even random salsa line dancing that Julie and I tried and failed at. It was hilarious!! Wish you could have seen it...actually, probably better that you didn´t. We found ourselves quite entertaining.

One thing I really appreciate about the salsa club is the men´s intentions when you dance. Back home, ¨dancing¨at the club is more of an excuse for a guy to try to rub up on a girl (sorry for the crude description mom!). In salsa clubs here and in most places, its about the actual dancing. Granted, its a very sensual kind of dancing, but there is usually no hidden agenda. I appreciate that alot. I had fun dancing with all the different guys and afterwards, we each say ¨gracias¨ and then go back to our friends and talking. Much better club atmosphere then back home.

Overall a very good first night out in Madrid. Tonight we are going to see a flamenco show. Should be fun. Off we go to explore Madrid some more. Happy Friday!!!!

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Madrid...Seeing how the other half live

Today, I began my travel in Madrid with a stroll around town. I decided to get lost and began wandering little side streets. It was about 10am and there were no tourists in sight...beautiful!! I meandered through little neighborhoods with cobblestone streets, and beautiful ornate front doors with tile and iron. The side streets were also much cooler cause they were mostly in the shade. I wound up in Plaza Mayor, one of the major plazas in the city. It was beautiful and it was great to see such a major plaza being set up for the day. The cafes were just starting to open and tables were being put out. The neighborhood dogs still had the run of the plaza. There were running back and forth barking, with the barks echoing throughout the plaza.

After spending a couple minutes just staring at everything, I decided to continue my journey. I picked another small little side street and wandered down that. I found a really cute little farmers market that I made note of. I think I might go there now to get some fresh fruit. After about 15 minutes, I stumbled upon what was apparantly the Royal Palace and Cathedral. I figured while I´m here, why not go inside.

The palace was absolutely gorgeous. King Juan Carlos still uses it today for official events and dinners. Royal funerals also take place there I believe. The palace was completely too ornate, as most of them are, but it gave me a lot of stuff to see and take in. The best part about being there early is that there was no line and hardly anybody inside. I manuevered around a couple of tour groups and then found that I had the whole palace to myself. I was alone in each room, well...minus a security guard here and there. It was very surreal. I spent time trying to imagine living in a place like that and what life must have been like back then. Absolutely insane.

Julie comes today on the 4pm train. Can´t wait to see here and catch up. I haven´t seen my old college roommate in two years now. I´m sure we will have many fun things to report about in the days ahead.

Germany Lost.....awwwww

Craig and I decided that we would spend our last night in Berlin (my last in Germany) with a couple thousand of our fellow World Cup fans. There was a huge festival (for lack of a better description) going on. The streets were shut down for a mile in one direction and a couple blocks wide. Huge jumbo tron TVs were set up all down the street and vendors were selling beer, food and t-shirts. Everyone was sporting the Germany colors. They were waving flags constantly, singing the German fight chant and having a great time. Kids had their faces painted with red, yellow and black - the German team colors.

The game started off slow, so Craig and I decided to turn our interests to our alchol intake. Surrounded by a huge crowd, I knew that the reality of the situation was that I needed a beer buzz or I was going to hate being part of a mob. So, we immediately got four beers, two each. Then I decided it was time for a brat. We wandered through the crowd to the guy selling brats. I ordered two of them....in German!!! Craig taught me how about 30 seconds before I had to say it, but whatever....it was in German. hells yeah!! so with a beer in one hand and a brat in the other, I was brought back to my German heritage.

Half time in the game came and went without a goal. Although, it did bring us more beers and Craig one very messy donar kebap (German version of a gyro). Three hours after we arrived, it was about time to go. The game was still 0-0 when we left. Part of me wanted to stay to see what happens when the game ends...win or lose. But then the realistic part of me said that thousands of people would be pouring through two gates, possibly rioting and I don´t want to die. So.....

We hailed a bike taxi back to the hotel. We proceeded to chant ¨Deutchland!!!¨everytime we passed anybody on the streets....or even thought we might pass somebody. Every body we screamed to, proceeded to raise their fists in the air and repeat it back. Made my night!! I even screamed it out to a group of Polizei (German police) who chanted back as well!! Good times!

On a sad note, I´ve decided that it is in fact my fault that Germany lost. I never did get arround to buying my Ballack jersey. We didn´t paint our faces. Perhaps the German flag on Craig´s car wasn´t big enough to show our pride. I knew that I wasn´t drinking enough beer to keep my German heritage proud. Damn it!!! So, yeah.....to all of the German fans out there...and to Germany as a whole: My Bad!!

However, I will always and forever love Midfielder Michael Ballack. He will have my shoulder to cry on if he needs it.

Reality happens

So, I came into the internet cafe yesterday to write a blog, but i wasn´t really sure where to begin or if i even wanted to blog about this, but i think i will. Get it out there and move on. As some of you know, while I was in Berlin I was robbed. Craig and I stayed in a nice hotel in the business area of the city. Our room was one of 5 that got hit within four hours, during the Germany-Italy World Cup game. They stole 350 euros and my digital camera. Looking back on it, I´m glad that it was the only thing we lost. We are safe. We weren´t in the room.

The worst part is that I don´t have any of my pictures from Prague or Germany. They were on the memory card in the camera. And as fate would have it. We specifically went back to the room to put my digital camera away so that I wouldn´t lose it at the WC game. Figures! I´m not sure why but it really hit me yesterday morning and I couldn´t stop crying. Poor Craig! There were a couple of hours that I was really tempted to go to the airport and switch my flight so that I could just head home. I wanted to be back with things that were familiar to me. But, my plane ticket to Madrid and my first hotel night there were already paid, so I figured I might as well make the trip and see how i feel.

The German police were called to the hotel and they spent about a half hour with us going over everything and then they even fingerprinted half of our hotel door. Craig and I were both impressed. We were expecting some fake ass report to be made, but there were really serious about it. I´m guessing its because there were so many people robbed. I have to call the German police department when i get back to the states to give them the specifics of my camera model so that in case for some rare reason they do find my camera, they can return it.

Ok, so there is the story. Sucks but I´m about 85% over it now. On to the next blog where it can be fun again.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Germany

So, I made it to Germany after a slight train incident. Well, I guess technically I was already in Germanz when it happened. We're riding along, about an hour from Frankfurt where I was meeting Craig. All of the sudden the train stops....in a field. Ok, no worries...I'm good. It's daylight out this time. I am showered. I am already ahead of the Venice situation. Long story short....70 minutes later the train starts again for whatever reason and off we go.

I met Craig at the track and we threw my bags in his car. Then, like good 20 somethings during World Cup, we headed straight over to the local pub. We started drinking and watching the rest of the games. Poor Brazil!!!! awwwww and Poor England!! We drank and danced and partied all night. We got home around 5am...can't believe I stayed awake for 22 hours!! Especially now that i am old and everything.

Craig's base is in this really cute town of Friedberg, about 30 minutes outside of Frankfurt. The architecture is so beautiful there and the town of about 20,000 even has a castle. We spent yesterday wandering around town and relaxing. We climbed to the top of the tower in the castle and had a great view all the way to Frankfurt. Every time I'm in a castle I try to imagine what it was like to live there....and to defend it from invades. It is such a world that i can't bring to life.

There are more fun stories but they must wait now. My time at the internet cafe is about to run out. Hope everything is going well back home. Happy 4th of July!!! I know Craig and I will be having a beer or two in celebration of the homeland!!

Good bye Prague

Ok, so I'm in Germany...Berlin to be exact. You are going to have to bear with me on type o's cause i'm using a german keyboard that obviously hates me. keys are all switched around and everything! aaaarrrrrggg!

My last days in Prague were great. I spent Friday morning buying a couple of gifts that i'm really excited about...one of which was for me. My mom gave me some money for my birthdaz and told me to buy something nice (thanks mom!!). I actually listened to her (go figure) and bought a beautiful glass sculpture. its dark blue and iäm really excited about it. as long as it doesn't break on the way home!! Guess I'll find out soon enough. Friday night we had a final group dinner and this gorgeous locals restaurant. Honza surprised us by arranging a couple of his musician friends to come a play some classic Czech songs. it was so surreal to be sitting in the restaurant with these musicians. i can't even explain it!! And then of course, we went around the corner to the beer hall and finished the nights off with some half liters of beer and a lot of great conversation. everybody exchanged emails and then headed home.

Saturday morning i woke up early for one final stroll through Prague before leaving for Germany. I wandered through my neighborhood which was tourist free at the hour and said my favorite phrase: Dobrey Den (Good day) to the locals. I've mastered that phrase. I gave my traditional nod to the Czech police in front of the American Embassy and then made my way to the Charles Bridge one last time. I stood on the bridge for probablz 20 minutes or so just wathcing the water run below it and trying to memorize the Prague skyline before I left. It was extremely peaceful but also sad.

It was at that moment that I realized how much I had fallen in love with the city over the week. I was looking forward to Germany and Spain but there was a huge part of me that did not want to say good bye. The people, the culture, the history, the architecture...I love it all. I am now one of the proud people that can say: 'Prague? Oh my god, you have to go there!! It's one of my favorite cities!!!'